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For Britain's Chinese community, running Chinese restaurants represents an almost universal experience among first-generation immigrants. For Chung, who has been working hard in Manchester for many years, this path has not been easy, but it represents a journey filled with sweat and resilience. His story not only reflects the experience of Hong Kong immigrants making a living in foreign lands, but also mirrors the development and challenges of Chinese food culture in Britain.
Chung arrived in Britain in the early 1990s and, like many fellow countrymen, chose to start in the catering industry. Although Manchester already had a Chinatown at the time, competition was far less intense than today. He recalls that initially running the restaurant did not rely on Chinese customers, but rather local white residents and foreign students. These customers' understanding of "Chinese food" mostly remained limited to simplified dishes like fried spring rolls and sweet and sour pork, which were far removed from authentic Cantonese or Sichuan cuisine. Chung admits that finding balance between preserving authentic flavours and catering to customers' tastes has been the result of years of constant experimentation and adjustment.
"British people eat completely differently from Hong Kong people," Chung points out. Hong Kong people emphasise speed and value for money, but British diners focus on atmosphere and experience, slowly enjoying their meals. He has repeatedly negotiated with customers over the spiciness and portion sizes of dishes. "You have to understand that the Chinese food in their minds is actually already a localised food culture." These cultural differences have left Chung both helpless and forced to adapt.
As he has aged, Chung has become more aware of the hardships of the catering industry. He must go to the market for purchases early every morning and stay until the last customer leaves at night, often not resting until the early hours. Even so, he still insists on personally handling the cooking, because customers recognise "his craftsmanship". However, with rising prices and soaring energy costs, plus labour shortages following Brexit, running the restaurant has become even more difficult. He states frankly that the cost of hiring a chef now is almost double what it was ten years ago.
Beyond operational pressures, competition remains equally fierce. In recent years, with the wave of Hong Kong immigration, more and more Hong Kong people have chosen to open restaurants or small eateries in Britain. Although this has made the community more vibrant, the market has also become saturated. Chung believes that new immigrants bring enthusiasm and drive, but may not fully understand the characteristics of local clientele. He reminds: "You need to be mentally prepared. Don't think that Hong Kong's successful model will work when transplanted to Britain. The demands and consumption habits of people here are completely different."
In terms of business philosophy, Chung insists on "seeking change within stability". On one hand, he maintains traditional dishes to retain old customers; on the other, he attempts to introduce fusion cuisine to attract younger generations. The walls of his restaurant display many photos and thank-you cards from regular customers, and these details support him in continuing to persevere during difficult periods. He says that being able to let people feel the taste of home is his greatest pride.
However, Chung also acknowledges that future challenges will only multiply. He observes that Britain's dining choices are becoming increasingly diverse, featuring not only Vietnamese pho and Korean fried chicken, but also various Western fast food and vegetarian trends, relatively weakening Chinese food's appeal. Additionally, younger-generation Chinese may not be willing to take over their parents' restaurants, making the succession of Chinese restaurants a problem. "Actually, I don't dare say how many more years I can continue," Chung says with a laugh, though his eyes carry a hint of helplessness.
Despite this, he still considers this a career worthy of pride. Because in Manchester, many people's first encounter with Chinese culture comes through his restaurant. "Some people eat our food and become interested in Chinese culture, even travelling to Hong Kong. These are unexpected rewards."
Restaurant Information: Gonbay Chinese Restaurants - Altrincham & Sale Address: 25-27 The Downs, Altrincham WA14 2QD, United Kingdom Operating Hours: 1200 - 2230
